Topaz adjust and Nik Silver Efex.
Don't recall the specific steps, as I did this a few days ago and have slept since then. I think I used a slightly modified "Photo pop" preset.
I love using Topaz before applying Silver Efex. Going over the top with Topaz normally looks rather bad (IMO) but running it through Silver Efex gives you gorgeous tonality with all those zany colors. Exact thing I did for this one Very nice use of contrast here.