Nice shot. A lot of dedication goes into floating in the impact zone to get shots like this. Looking at his clothing, I'd say it wasn't too cold for you though. :) There's a few technical issues with the shot, some aberration, looks like too much noise processing and sharpening - this is probably all from having to crop down from such a wide lens. The drop of water covering the left side of the shot is pretty lucky it wasn't covering the subject. Overall still a good shot. Well done!
Nice action catch. Especially on the NC coast. Ya need the canes to get a good wave and then you have to know the right beach. Were you in the drink with him? Don't see any drops so I guess not. Not bad for a long shot. Hmmmm, back to look again. EXIF says 15mm! You had to be in the water.
Also back to bump you up to the max. Congrats on a good action shot. (Not just because I live in NC LOL)