Not your typical surfing action shot, I think - there's a just-right level of sharpness (not oversharp) in the main subject, and that subject is far enough away from the lens that it doesn't overwhelm the overall composition. Nice arrangement of elements in this composition, with softness/sharpness in all the right places. Tonal distribution is good too. Have you figured out I like it already? :)
Excellent Color, DOP, and Composition. Just Awesome. Also, her stance on the board really makes you feel like there is more action than there really is with a wave of that size.