Good action shot! Color is very good. Since the wave he's riding doesn't seem really impressive, it's probably a good thing to not include it, but maybe a little more in front, but then again, it's already a landscape shot, so you're probably getting heck of that issue (sorry). I still think it's at least a 9. Rob the Swash
Good capture. Personally, I would like this even better if we had eye contact with the surfer or if his face was turned more to the camera. That said, it's a good angle as it is and his expression is full of concentration - I can imagine it being popular with other serious surfers.
I know it must have been tough to get a good shot, but his monkey-posture is not the most flattering pose for a surfer. A few seconds earlier or later, standing more upright, would have been more appealing.