Perfect timing, well done. I must admit that in pursuit of the shot I have put myself in equally precarious situations. Your choice of a slower shutter speed has enabled us to really experience the drama of the situation, the breaking wave has just the right amount of motion blur to help us fell the sheer power of it.
I see several of your commenters have picked up on the sharpening halos to the left, I can only agree with them, its a real shame, it mars an otherwise excellent image. There's not a lot you can do about the lighting but it would have been good if we could have got more definition of the wave against the sky. Its good to have some foreground included but the small amount we have here is not really adding anything and would probably be best cropped out. The exposure is good with plenty of detail throughout.
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