I'm trying to figure out how to get different subjects into a frame in one exposure. One way would include switching lenses during either a long exposure or during a bulb shot (where I can manually close the shutter whenever I want).
Does disconnecting the lens automatically close the shutter? I realize the sensor would be exposed, but I'd cover it quickly with another lens.
I also realize I couldn't aim using the viewfinder, so it'd be a bit of hit or miss on composition.
I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish, but you may want to consider some sort of zoom lens. Open shutter/expose... cover lens... zoom.... uncover lens/expose... close shutter... done!
Does disconnecting the lens automatically close the shutter?
Of course grabbing the camera Manual 30 second shot. Remove the lens see what happens. They recommend on Canon's to not remove the lens while the camera is on... done it plenty of times no problems.
No I understand you need to zoom, I'm just thinking that isn't going to be the tough part of getting that shot. (of course you need the zoom that can take both parts of the shot...)
The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th. Those are just examples, but when you have a large difference in exposure it tends to make one of them short which makes it hard to expose properly by removing a blocking card and replacing it. (again, I'm thinking totally within DPC rules here, otherwise just do the composite). The slot card is a rectangular piece of black matboard with a slot cut in the middle (maybe 1/2" high and 8" wide). You expose the shot by moving the slot over the lens at a fast speed. It allows you to get exposures that are in fractions of a second rather than in seconds. On the fire shot I think I was probably exposing closer to 1/50th or 1/100th or a second. I could never do that without the slot.
Its an interesting challenge to do in one shot that for sure, I think trying it would take a lot of planning. Unless its for a challenge you could easily do this one in camera with D200. Which I am not sure is the point or not. But since the sky is black you could overlay a shot of the moon and it would come in nice and crisp.
If you wanted to do a single shot double exposure I figure you would have to do it something like this.
1. figure out the exposure of the building
2.figure out the exposure and focus distance of the moon
3. grab the focus of the building then click the focus to manual,and set to bulb or 30 s exposure
4. Count off the exposure of the building and cover the lens
5. Refocus to the moon and zoom accordingly and count off the moon exposure.
I haven't tried this with a zoom but I am pretty sure it would need to be pretty exact.
Well thats what I would do if didn't do the overlay in camera :)
The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th.
If you set the F/stop on the moon so the exposure is 1 sec, then you could use that aperture and doing a long exposure on the building, say 25 sec. Which doesn't give you alot of time to switch around unless you have a release remote so you can use bulb. Thats the workaround I see.
Thanks, Jason and Joe. I get it, Jason - it's just like the way a real shutter works, with one curtain following right behind the other.
Joe, I know the D200 can do in-camera multiples, but it's easier to just do it in PS, like I did with the shot I posted earlier. As for getting timing right, well, I have a little experience with that:
I can't even imagine a circumstance where I'd use in-camera multiple exposure instead of compositing in PS. DPC was about all I could think of, but that's no longer allowed (and I agree that it shouldn't be, FWIW).
The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th.
If you set the F/stop on the moon so the exposure is 1 sec, then you could use that aperture and doing a long exposure on the building, say 25 sec. Which doesn't give you alot of time to switch around unless you have a release remote so you can use bulb. Thats the workaround I see.
Id like to see the Aperture for that LMAO. Even at F/22 id be shooting 1/180-1/320.
Id like to see the Aperture for that LMAO. Even at F/22 id be shooting 1/180-1/320.
I'll have to give it a shot, I hadn't worked out the specifics, but if you through on a Circular polarizer and ND filters in front, I think you could get there in no time :)
Joe, I know the D200 can do in-camera multiples, but it's easier to just do it in PS, like I did with the shot I posted earlier.
Yeah much easier, I thought you were trying to to figure it out for a challenge entry, and I was trying to think how I would do it. :)
Careful - it's no longer legal outside of expert.
As for my new lens ... WOW. NOW I know, firsthand, what people mean when they talk about beautiful glass. :) I've never seen pictures before that are sharp almost all the way up to 100% crop. Put that baby on the 10mp D200, and I can't believe how much I can crop down and still have it look good, at least on screen.
Careful - it's no longer legal outside of expert.
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Yeah I know, I mean't the explanation with all the steps :)
I am totally jealous of your new glass, I have been slowly getting the itch to get something new. I was actually more thinking of getting your Tamron and selling my 28-75. You wanna trade? :P I think I would use the 17-28 range more than 50-75 range. Then I think what I really should spend my money on is another flash like the sb-800 and some accessories like a softbox or umbrella and stands, then I think I should just get some studio lights instead, then I remember I am broke. LoL
Jeffrey, there's got to be someplace where you can get far enough away from the capitol that you can accomplish this idea:
The trick is to pick a location that has both the correct distance and the correct azimuth. You want a location where you can reasonable expect to have a good moonrise at least a few times per year.
