hi guys i know i been here before but this is my last chance. all the 2000 pics ive taken as tests with the 602 have come out blured on my pc, i dont understand why this is and its really getting to me now and im seriously thinking of quiting photography. please dont think im giving up, its just i sank every penny i had into this cam and if i cant get it working i have no options what so ever. all my pics look great on the lcd screen on the back but once i put them on the pc they are all soft and blured. tomorrow is my last day to take it back and it really is getting to me
go outdoors in good light. set the timer. put the cam down on something and push the button. walk away. download that picture. if it's fuzzy, take the cam back. lol
I agree. This sounds a lot like camera shake could be the cause. Do NOT use the LCD as anything other than a guide to composition; it is impossible to check focus (except for gross errors).
As mav suggested, make sure there is no possibility of camera shake -- tripod, timer, etc --and see if it is still shaky.
Just for the record, are you looking at 6mp or 3mp files, full size, resized or resampled?.What is the sharpening (soft/normal/hard) and what quality (jpeg) have you set?
Last time you showed a pic of a train if I am not mistaken and it was in 6mp mode. Didn't think anything was wrong with it (the first of the row).
But as you are in doubt and probably will be forever with this high investment, make sure you are completely happy and satisfied. Else return it and get another cam, don't let it ruin your confidence and happiness. Get something that works for you or make sure it works as you want it to.
I would guess that if all 2000 pics you have taken are blured you have a faulty camera.
You have 2 pics in your portfolio that look fine. Were these taken with 602?
We need to see samples and have some data.
went to jessops to test camera it fine,, so it must be me, im looking at 6megpixel fine images, that are un edited as i dont do much editing as i have never needed to. i gonna keep cam not being beat by it gonna buy monopod and tripod to see if it shake
The tripod will definitely help. When I got my tripod (as a christmas gift), I noticed a 100% improvement in the quality of my photos. I use the tripod every opportunity I get. (I shoot mostly "non-action" shots)
I learned that my camera shake problem was the result of "shutter button panic." I learned to overcome this by the following methods:
- using the 2 second timer and tripod; take your hands off the camera while the photo is being recorded
- using the timer, and then "pressing AND holding" the shutter release button until the photo is recorded; I use this method when using the tripod is not possible or available.
- holding my breath while pressing the shutter release button; if tripod cannot be used, find another way to brace your body against something to reduce camera shake.
When you press the shutter release button, there is a moment of resistence before it is pressed all the way. Press slowly but firmly while holding your breath. This takes much practice.
i use auto mode and it seems to be selecting very low shutter speads so ive been told what is the fastest on there cos at the mo its just a bunch of numbers to me, do i wanna use a shutter speed as fast as possible or as slow
I've found auto-mode on the 602 to be extremely intelligent. It will usually only give you slow shutter speeds for low light situations. In ambient light on a summer day, it rarely shows less than 1/250 for me.
While you are learning the camera, I would suggest keeping it in auto mode (the red mark) for ordinary daytime outside situations. For night shots, try SP and choose the night-time option (the moon and star icon). Those should keep you safely within limits for the camera.
Once you are happy and comfortable with the equipment, start experimenting with more of the manual modes (S, A and M).
Try to keep the shutterspeed at at least the zoom distance like this:
38mm full wideangle: 1/40s
210mm full zoom: 1/200s
When you don't have a steady hand (I don't have one) use 1/60 as minimum at wideangle and go faster then 1/200s at full zoom, like 1/250 to 1/500s. In between you've got to judge what you need. The more zoom, the faster the shutter. But broad and deep landscaping also requires stabalization and small apertures (like F11) so then you'll definitely want a tripod.
I am always in aperture priority (or manual) and set the aperture first. When the shutter is too slow I either open the aperture up (like from F5.6 to F5, to F4 - that also sets the shutter faster), put it on a tripod, think of a way to use flash without it being to visible or adjust the ISO.
F11 means that almost anything is in focus, F2.8 means that little is in focus, could look soft in places on your screen. F11 closes the 'blades' (don't know how to explain that item right in English) in the lens to a small pinhole. You need more time to let enough light hit the sensor, requiring slower shutters (f.e. from 1/1000 to 1/100 to 1s). F2.8 opens the blades up to a big hole, light gets to the sensor easier and thus the shutter can be set faster.
When you are at a bookshop, amazon, the library check for National Geographic's Photography Field Guide. The basic one, not landscapes or portraits. Its a readable, understandable introduction to the above. When you use it, why you use it and how it all relates.
Try out all the settings on your camera, explore it, see what results the settings yield, look for differences etc. Not all pics have to be great, just take a subject like a tree or a train and let loose all the possible settings in Aperture priority and Shutter Priority. Change the ISO, fiddle with whitebalance........
I have the same problem but this was hand held