Use a tripod if you have one. Use a remote control/ timer/ cable release if you have one.
Any shake/vibration gets really magnified along with your subject.
Depth of field is in short supply, if you want it all sharp, have the subject parallel to the lens/ sensor plane, otherwise you'll get blurred items (which is also fine!)
When using a tripod, I have successfully used aperture priority and macro mode to create some deep depth of field in a macro... It's definitely worth playing with.
Tips:
As Gordon said, use a tripod... Switch to aperture priority mode... stop down as far as you can... use NO zoom...
Short focal length and small apertures produce more depth of field...
dont forget that if u use a small aperture to get a lot of depth of field (remember, that means a higher number), you'll need either a loooong shutter speed, or a lot of light.
The key to macro photography is to get close to your subject..lol seriously there macro lights that mount on the lens because when you shoot real close the subject sometimes is darkened by the shadow caused by the camera or just use another light source tripod ect most cameras have the timing feature which i used to eliminate shake and you can get your butt out of the way of the incoming light! there are also less expensive lenses that mount on the exisiting lens that create the macro effect. Last thing, don't forget to zoom on the already close pic with your software to see if you can get a more 'blown up' pic and crop crop crop
When doing insects and spiders (they are going to pretty dopey this time of year) go for a longer shutter rather than stronger light. Strong light creates loads on hot spots and glare on hairs and wings. Longer shutter can give blur from wind and other movement, so pick a cold and windless day.
Also, try not to breath on them, as this tends to alarm them.
To achieve better magnification use close-up diopters in various sizes +1, +2, +4...etc. The one thing about them is that they do tend to warp the edges a bit especially if you stack a lot on.
Alternatively pick up an auxillary macro add-on lens such as Olympus A-Macro (49mm), Olympus B-Macro(55mm), Olympus MCON-35/MCON-40 (thread?)
Canon and others also make two element macro lenses that are of excellent quality.
Originally posted by psychephylax: To achieve better magnification use close-up diopters in various sizes +1, +2, +4...etc. The one thing about them is that they do tend to warp the edges a bit especially if you stack a lot on.
I think part of the secret is you have to stack them in the correct order. I believe this is highest number closest to the camera...
Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
Macro usually works best without using the zoom. Just get your camera as close as its focussing will allow. I was shooting slides on a light box when I discovered that it didn't work to try to use the zoom so I just positioned my camera about 3/4 on an inch away from the slide and used autofocus to focus. Since I was shooting a flat object I felt that I couldn't do any better then the cameras autofocus. Keep in mind that in Macro even F8 can produce a very shallow DOF. An aperture larger then that can be very hard to control accurately. With some cameras that are fully automatic it may be beneficial to use a lot of light to try to reduce the size of the aperture to increase DOF.
Tends to be that the further you are zoomed in, the harder it is to get focused. However wide angle to zoom gives a different type of shot than just moving the camera due to the zoom compression effects. Depends how you want the shot to look. Also lenses tend to distort more when zoomed in to the extreme or open as wide as possible.
Same goes for aperture. If your camera has settings from f2 to f8, f8 will give you the deepest DoF. f5.6 or so will probably give you the sharpest overall image though.
If you have this problem you can get away from it by using a closeup macro lens and cut the distance by half or more.
Originally posted by csb: Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
Not if your camera won't allow you to attach lenses you can't. ;-)
I've a feeling that those of us without this ability may not do so well with this challenge. Either that or I'll have to find some talent from somewhere, but maybe my camera hasn't got a thread to attach that either! ;-))
Tim
Originally posted by paganini: If you have this problem you can get away from it by using a closeup macro lens and cut the distance by half or more.
Originally posted by csb: [i]Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
If your camera dosn't have a macro function try using a plain old magnifying glass just the way you might use it for reading the small print. Check focus and fraiming with the cameras LCD viewer. A tripod or other means of steading the camera and a bright light source are always helpfull in getting the sharpest images.
* This message has been edited by the author on 11/7/2002 11:04:12 AM.
I can put lenses on mine but can't afford them right now so.... for those of you that are stuck in the same situation....
even with my macro feature I can't get in as close as I would like (with auto focus) so zooming in works wonders for me. Check out my pins pic in the light source week
It would really help your lighting on macro wildlife shots if your flash was on a bracket and held at a 30 degree angle or so off to the side. and dial in your smallest aperture. Myself, i will use anything from F-64 to f-11 when shooting macro wild life subjects
Do any of you have a stand, tripod, technique to hold the camera directly over and close to the subject? Whatever I try I either can't get close enough to the subject or something gets in the way. I'm trying to point the camera straight down and close to the subject. I have a tripod but the center post is over 12 inches long and that keeps the camera way to far from the subject.
* This message has been edited by the author on 11/7/2002 11:45:25 PM.
couldn't you cut a hole for the lens in a piece (or layer of pieces) of cardboard or something on a supported platform and support the camera over the subject that way?
I guess I could build something. I'm thinking of using a few bricks on the floor and a board across them. That way I could adjust the height by adding or taking away bricks.
