This is kinda creepy... I just came in from smokin' my cigar. I saw a shooting star and was gonna post a thread about if anyone has any shots of any to post...
Also at spaceweather. com. I get the weekly notice of what's up. Love that. They have a space map on their Perseid Meteorpage to point you in the general direction also.
Yea it could be hard. I am thinking about doing an hour or two exposure and seeing what happens. :)
Probably end up sorta like this but with some sporatic trails:
Is that a single 25 minute exposure? If so, how is the noise out of the camera? Did you need to use a ND filter to get the long exposure? I've done some 30 second shots (I don't have the remote) and they were ok, but there were some hot pixels after only 30 seconds. Do you use dark frame subtraction on top of the canon auto de-noising?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to be able to take shots like that. Any tips?
This is an interesting topic, as I have spent the past three months helping my neighbour build an observatory in the back garden. We are almost to the point where the scope can be installed and then he intends getting a 'CCD camera' for space shots. Anyone interested in the project can mail me.
Is that a single 25 minute exposure? If so, how is the noise out of the camera? Did you need to use a ND filter to get the long exposure? I've done some 30 second shots (I don't have the remote) and they were ok, but there were some hot pixels after only 30 seconds. Do you use dark frame subtraction on top of the canon auto de-noising?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to be able to take shots like that. Any tips?
Thanks,
Ara
It's a single exposure, although I've been meaning to try stacking which should take care of noise a bit more. It was far enough from city lights that I didn't need an ND filter, I used f8 at iso100. There was at least one noticiable hot pixel that I cloned out, but overall noise wasn't too bad. Here's a 100% crop, obviously there is some noise and I am definetly going to try a series of 10 x 5 minute exposures with my remote/intervelometer.
Where on these sites does it tell you if you can see them in your neck of the woods? I want to know if I can see them from LA County (City of Glendale)... any help?
So these super long exposures are standard on the 10D? Is there a way to get them on the 300D, I thought 30 seconds was max for it.
long exposures are done with either a timer remote (like the canon TC-80N3) which allows you to hold the shutter open as long as you want. This remote will NOT work on the 300D. or long exposures can be done by "stacking" many exposures, like 30, 30 second images in photoshop of a free program called registax.
Where on these sites does it tell you if you can see them in your neck of the woods? I want to know if I can see them from LA County (City of Glendale)... any help?
you will be able to see them from all of North america. However it is beneficial to get far away from the city lights so you will be able to see the less bright meteors.
The most effective way to photograph meteor showers is with a camcorder.
If you use a DV camcorder, the image quality is decent. Meteors are typically bright enough that no special equipment is needed.
Setup the camcorder facing the eastern part of the sky at wide angle to capture as wide a field as possible. Use a video capture utility that can read the usb port from your camcorder to take individual frames.
A camcorder is most effective for this type imaging because the record is continuous.
So these super long exposiors are standard on the 10D? Is there a way to get them on the 300D, I thought 30 seconds was max for it.
The B setting after 30 seconds is the "bulb" setting and can hold the shutter open as long as you want. Use a remote to click open and when you like click shut it.
I`m going to try and capture some meteors.
I will use 18mm to cover as much sky as possible and single 30 second exposures. At 18mm there should be very little star trailing which i will be trying to avoid.
There should be about 1 meteor a minute away from the street lights.
I will just keep snapping away until i get one.
There are few uses for a fish eye lens but if i had one, meteors would be top of the list.
I`m going to try and capture some meteors.
I will use 18mm to cover as much sky as possible and single 30 second exposures. At 18mm there should be very little star trailing which i will be trying to avoid.
There should be about 1 meteor a minute away from the street lights.
I will just keep snapping away until i get one.
There are few uses for a fish eye lens but if i had one, meteors would be top of the list.
Good luck. :)
Ya might want to experiment with various aperatures and iso levels to get a good amount of brightness from the stars.
Ya might want to experiment with various aperatures and iso levels to get a good amount of brightness from the stars.
Yes very good idea. I will stick to iso 100 if possible but i will have to get the balance right. Most meteors are faint +magnitude and i will need a bit of luck to get a - magnitude meteor.
I have seen a -8 mag meteor a few years ago and it lit up the whole garden and had bits breaking off it. I could see the vapour trail in the sky for atleast a minute after. Unforgetable.
Im thinking of getting a new lens just for the meteors, maybe a 20mm or 24mm F1.8.
I have found that ISO 400 @ F1.4 to F1.8 (sometimes even F2) for 20 seconds does pretty well in getting a lot of dim objects
here is a sample shot (only resized down to 800x600)
Image details - Lens Canon 50mm f/1.4
Shutter speed: 10.0 sec
Aperture: f/1.4
Zoom (Focal length): 80mm (equiv.)*
Date picture was taken: 08/07/2004 (Sat)
Time picture was taken: 10:23 PM
Camera model: Canon EOS D60
So these super long exposures are standard on the 10D? Is there a way to get them on the 300D, I thought 30 seconds was max for it.
long exposures are done with either a timer remote (like the canon TC-80N3) which allows you to hold the shutter open as long as you want. This remote will NOT work on the 300D. or long exposures can be done by "stacking" many exposures, like 30, 30 second images in photoshop of a free program called registax.
James
You can get the Canon RS-60E3, it works with the Digital Rebel, I have it. It is only a couple of feet long, so you won't be able to include yourself in the picture. THis is a cable release, not a remote control. I've been meaning to get the remote control, but it's like $300...not worth it in my opinion.
I've been meaning to get the remote control, but it's like $300...not worth it in my opinion.
Are you sure you're looking at the right product for the DRebel? B&H says it is only $24.95... or are you talking about something other than being able to trip the shutter wirelessly with an infrared remote? This low-cost remote is one advantage the DRebel has over the 10D for sure.
I've been meaning to get the remote control, but it's like $300...not worth it in my opinion.
Are you sure you're looking at the right product for the DRebel? B&H says it is only $24.95... or are you talking about something other than being able to trip the shutter wirelessly with an infrared remote? This low-cost remote is one advantage the DRebel has over the 10D for sure.
The item you are refering to has a distance limitation of "It operates at ranges up to 16.4 ft./5m"
The LC-3 can operate up to "The LC-3 is an Infrared strobe-type wireless control system designed for use with Canon SLRs featuring T3 terminals (eg. EOS 1N/RS, A2/E, 630 etc.), has a maximum range of approx. 100m/330ft"
You can however buy a 33' extension cable for the TC-80N3 it sells for $72 at B&H. But by the time you get done you have paid half the cost of the wireless remote :)
