I'm just wondering if you could get more flexibility for the painting with light thingy for P&S users by using multiple exposures of the same subject with the camera at exactly the same spot. Has anyone tried this before? I'm not talking about layering images is PS, but using the multiple exposure camera function.
As for using a mobile light source, you can use almost anyhing: flashlight, flash unit, car headlights, portable desktop lamp, portable spotlight, candles, lasers, torches (fiery ones), lanterns, etc.
I'm going to have to eat lots of spinach if I want to rip out the lamp standard in front of the house and use it as a portable light source. I ams what I ams. Toot toot!
I used PWL on my soft focus entry. My camera has a 15 sec max exposure, but I did some variations using only 8 sec. I think it is possible with less. I used a very small, very directional source and painted around the edge of each petal. I could have used a broader source and done it in 2 seconds. The critical thing is to plan out what you are going to illuminate when the shutter is open.
Denis. If you can look thru a book called "The Lighting Cookbook", there are a few pictures done by a guy that uses multiple exposures for his light painting. I was considering getting an optio(?) just for it's double exposure capabilities because I like his photos a lot. Sorry, my book is at work so I can't give you his name.
I don't think anyone's whining in this thread, just discussing equipment limitations and possible workarounds. As you say, EVERY challenge is somehow unfair to someone ....
Maybe a slight clarification: it's very definitely possible with a P&S camera, but not possible if you can't get exposures of probably at least 4 seconds. 2 seconds might work, but probably won't be effective.
Here are a couple of shots I've entered using this technique:
This one wasn't entirely effective, but was probably due as much to the fact that the flashlight I used didn't have a very sharp beam. I was going for highlighting the verse, but got quite a bit of light bleeding at the bottom.
In this one, moving the light around helped minimize some shadows, though not all in this particular take.
Neither of those are great shots, but the point is that many P&S cameras are capable, if they have a long enough shutter speed.
Like I said above, I was able to effectively PWL using a P&S camera and only 1 second exposure.
To maximize my "painting time", as well as eliminate camera shake, I set the camera to timer mode. Immediately after pressing the button, I lit the scene and started moving the light all around. When the shutter opened for that 1 second, I was already in mid-move.
You won't have time to get creative, but with a little practice, PWL can be effectively done at at least 1 second!
Am I able to enter this challenge with my camera? I can hold a torch or candle is that the type of picture or should I just sit this one out
The pic in my portflio of my daughter and the candle is that the type of image required?
I just set up a little experiement in my mini studio and the camera that was sent to me by pcody (thank you very much hun!) to use while my hot pixels get fixed has a max 3 second shutter speed. I won't say what I was shooting (wouldn't want to get in trouble for possibly giving away someone else's idea!) but after just playing a little magnifying glass light (you know the kind to read the book in the dark with) and it came out pretty cool. Will have to play with it this week and decide what I really want to shoot but if you camera has any type of manual settings for night time shooting or you can adjust the shutter for night time shots it's probably your best bet.
I really consider this a true challenge, something I have NEVER done, at least not intentionally and I get to practice too!
Deannda
My hubby will hate you all by the end of the week, LOL
i was thinking of doing a precious moments type set up with little toddlers, using a flashlight to make halos around each one....i can't find any kids around and i don't think i can make any in time of the challenge....
After reading through this forum, I finally understand what PWL actually means (many thanks to ScottK). hat's what I really enjoy about this site, you really do learn to become a photographer!
I've never done this before. I'll try to experiment tomorrow but here's my question, probably a stupid one: Does the light have to be moved around the subject and does it have to be on the whole time the shutter is open. I know that the rebel can do 30-sec exposure and longer than that when set to "bulb".
I do think P/S users are at a distinct disadvantage here but ....
There are forms of painting with light that most people have played with at some stage, are doable with a P/S etc and meet the challenge. For example .....
Fireworks
Moving lights on vehicles (those shots with the white/red lines)
Several other great idea like that, but I don't want to give away someone else's entry by mistake.
P&S stands for 'point and shoot'. With these cameras, you have no control over the exposure at all. And some even pop the flash up automatically, pushing the shutter speed to around 1/60.
If you can control the exposure, you're not using a P&S camera. (Some P&Ss do allow some kind of exposure lock, and most digital ones have exposure compensation - not exposure control.)
If you are using a true P&S camera, you need the facility to disable the flash and to lock the exposure. Without these, painting with light is impossible.
If you can do this, turn the flash off and set exposure compensation to +2 (or whatever your maximum is). Point your camera at a black sheet of paper which fills the frame. Then set your exposure lock. This will give you the maximum time your camera allows. Be careful that the exposure lock is not also the focus lock. If it is, position the black sheet at the same distance from the object as the camera. Beyond this, I can see no other way of getting enough controlled time to paint with light on a P&S camera.
Most users here, though, will have manual exposure or shutter speed priority control. With these facilities, getting enough time is painless.
If you are using a true P&S camera, you need the facility to disable the flash and to lock the exposure. Without these, painting with light is impossible.
If you can do this, turn the flash off and set exposure compensation to +2 (or whatever your maximum is). Point your camera at a black sheet of paper which fills the frame. Then set your exposure lock. This will give you the maximum time your camera allows. Be careful that the exposure lock is not also the focus lock. If it is, position the black sheet at the same distance from the object as the camera. Beyond this, I can see no other way of getting enough controlled time to paint with light on a P&S camera.
Thanks Koriyama, very helpful!
I can do most of this with my P&S MX600 - turn flash off, set exposure override to +1.5. I can do a half press of the button to get exposure lock, but I'm pretty sure this is also focus lock.
However, I think the maximum exposure time in my camera's case is still only 1/4 sec, and with preset ISO of 100, this is probably to short to do be effective.
However, I think the maximum exposure time in my camera's case is still only 1/4 sec, and with preset ISO of 100, this is probably to short to do be effective.
I have just gotten a dark but usable exposure using 1/2 second at ISO 200 and a couple of tiny red LEDs. Use any kind of bright little flashlight and you'll probably get some kind of usable exposure. Remember, we are challenging our equipment to do things it wasn't designed for -- that's part of the fun. I'm not even going to worry if the shot's a bit grainy because I think that goes with the territory ....
However, I think the maximum exposure time in my camera's case is still only 1/4 sec, and with preset ISO of 100, this is probably to short to do be effective.
You're right. I've just checked DPReview's review of your camera, which confirms that figure. I must say that I'm impressed, Sleekr, you've managed some very fine images with your obsolete camera. You've even got 'respectful language' in Japanese (keigo).
It'll be interesting to see what you can do with 1/4.
